The kitchen faucet coughed twice, then went silent. Pressure gauge pinned at zero. The laundry stopped mid-cycle, and the shower upstairs cooled into an icy reminder that your well system has exactly one job—deliver water—every hour of every day. When a submersible well pump leaks internally or a seal fails, you don’t get a warning light. You get no water, a burned motor, or both.
Two hours after that faucet went dry, I got a call from a new family to our PSAM service desk. Let me introduce the Orellana family—Miguel (39) and Priya (37), living on 6 acres outside Ellensburg, Washington. Miguel is a self-employed farrier; Priya is a pediatric nurse who works nights. Their kids, Santi (9) and Noor (6), had a home day with no running water after their 1 HP competing-brand submersible lost prime internally, short-cycled for a week, then quit at 6:20 a.m. Their 240-foot well, static level at 85 feet, had been reliable until grit began appearing last fall. The old 10 GPM pump used a cast discharge head and an economy motor. When the mechanical seals let go, the motor oil and water mixed, insulation swelled, and the motor cooked.
Why this list matters: leaks and seals make or break any submersible. In the next ten items, I’ll cover how to detect a leak fast, how Myers’ Predator Plus Series keeps seals intact under punishment, how to size horsepower so seals aren’t overworked, how to install check valves and torque control so leaks never start, and what parts to keep on your shelf. We’ll talk materials, motor thrust bearings, pressure tank interaction, and yes, real-world math on costs. If you’re a rural homeowner, a well contractor hunting for fewer callbacks, or someone staring down an emergency replacement, this is the blueprint I use in the field.
Awards and achievements you can bank on: Myers’ Predator Plus Series pairs 300 series stainless steel with a Pentek XE high‑thrust motor that achieves 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, backed by a 3‑year warranty and Made in USA build standards, with UL and CSA listings. That package is why I stock it, specify it, and stand behind it at Plumbing Supply And More (PSAM).
I’m Rick Callahan, PSAM’s technical advisor. Decades of sizing, pulling failed pumps out of wet clay at dusk, and helping families like the Orellanas get water back before dinner—that’s my lens. Let’s keep leaks out of your well system and reliability baked in.
#1. Myers Predator Plus Leak Defense - 300 Series Stainless, Threaded Assembly, and Pentek XE Motor Synergy
A quiet leak inside a submersible doesn’t drip on your floor; it wipes out bearings, swells insulation, and kills motors. That’s why the materials and seal architecture matter.
The Predator Plus design starts with a fully 300 series stainless steel shell, discharge bowl, shaft, and suction screen. That housing doesn’t pit or corrode in mineral‑rich water the way mixed‑metal assemblies do. The pump end uses Teflon‑impregnated staging with self‑lubricating impellers that run cooler and resist abrasion, protecting the mechanical seal faces. Downstream, the Pentek XE motor supplies balanced axial load with high thrust capacity; stable shaft alignment reduces seal chatter and premature wear. Add a threaded assembly that’s truly field serviceable, and you can pull, inspect, and reseal on‑site instead of scrapping the whole unit. This is leak prevention by design, not luck.
Real-world example: When Miguel pulled his old unit, the motor oil smelled burned and the seal cavity was milky. With the Myers 1 HP, 10 GPM Predator Plus at 230V, we stabilized flow right at the best efficiency point (BEP) for his TDH. That operating point keeps temperatures down at the seal stack, extending life.
Leak Pathway #1: Mechanical Seal Interface
The primary seal rides the shaft and faces a high‑pressure boundary. On lesser pumps, grit at startup scores the faces and capillaries water through. Myers’ engineered composite stages reduce turbulence at the seal interface, while the Pentek XE’s thrust bearing limits axial whip. Result: stable film, minimal wear, longer life. Inspect for tea‑colored oil during pull—if present, replace seals and check runout.
Leak Pathway #2: Cable Entry and Potting
Water intrusion at the motor lead is a silent killer. Proper wire splice kit use with heat‑shrink, adhesive‑lined sleeves and correct strip lengths prevents wicking. Myers’ motor potting resists capillary creep; still, I insist on double wall heat shrink, staggered splices, and a cable guard to stop insulation scuffing against the drop pipe.
Leak Pathway #3: Discharge Head O‑Rings
Stainless discharge and machined seats in Myers units give O‑rings the compression they need. When you see pressure loss and a waterlogged annulus during a pull, swap O‑rings and check the internal check valve for a clean, crisp seal. Keep an O‑ring kit in the truck.
Key takeaway: Pump architecture sets the stage. Myers builds leak defense into the metal, motor, and seals, so you aren’t gambling every time the pump starts.
#2. Early Leak Detection - Pressure Gauge Behavior, Bleed-Back Tests, and Pressure Tank Diagnostics
Leaks announce themselves in subtle ways long before you’re hauling buckets.
Hydraulically, watch your pressure switch cycle. A small intra‑pump leak or discharge O‑ring seep leads to quick cut‑in/cut‑out cycling without demand, or a slow bleed‑down after the pump stops. With power off, note static pressure; if it decays without fixtures open, suspect the check valve or discharge seal. Next, isolate by closing the house tank tee valve and repeat—if pressure holds with the house isolated, your leak is in-house; if it still drops, look to the well side.
At the Orellanas’ home, the gauge bled from 62 to 48 psi in six minutes with everything closed. We isolated the house. Same decay. The drop pointed at the vertical run: either a failing check or leakage back through the pump. Pull test confirmed a milky motor cavity.
Gauge Patterns That Tell the Truth
- Rapid cycling under tiny demand suggests internal bypass or check failure. Slow decay after shutoff points at check valve, discharge O‑rings, or pump seals. No rise above cut‑in despite long runtime equals major leak or failed impellers.
Record these behaviors before you pull the pump; it sets your parts list.
Tank and Air Charge Interaction
A waterlogged pressure tank masks problems until it’s too late. Set pre‑charge 2 psi below cut‑in (e.g., 38 psi for 40/60). An undersized tank drives frequent starts; frequent starts raise seal wear. The Orellanas had a 20‑gallon tank on a family of four—marginal. We upsized to 44 gallons to reduce starts by ~35%.
Bleed-Back Test Procedure
- Power off at breaker. Close house isolation. Note pressure at minute 0, 5, 10. If decay present, crack the well cap and listen for trickle on shutoff (stethoscope helps). Evidence of backflow points at check/seal region.
Key takeaway: A $15 gauge and ten minutes of testing give you a leak roadmap. Do this before the wrenching.
#3. Material Advantage - Stainless vs Cast and Thermoplastic in Leak-Prone Environments
Materials call the tune in underground water. Chlorides, iron, and acidic pH chew on weak links.
Myers’ all‑ 300 series stainless steel pump end resists pitting and crevice corrosion that compromise seal lands and O‑ring seats. Seal faces depend on smooth, unchanging geometry to keep a microfilm intact. When corrosion undermines that geometry, leaks begin. With engineered composite impellers in Teflon‑impregnated staging, you get self‑lubrication during startup when water film is thinnest—exactly when many seals get scored.
For Miguel and Priya, the lab report showed elevated iron and moderate hardness—no big deal for stainless, but a long-term enemy of mixed metals. The Predator Plus shrugged off those conditions, where lesser alloys see edge creep and seepage after a couple of seasons.
Corrosion at the Seal Seat
Stainless seats hold flatness. Cast discharges corrode, changing O‑ring compression and promoting bypass. Inspect seats with a straightedge; if light leaks under the blade, you’ll have water leaking past that joint soon.
Abrasion Resistance at Startup
Grit surges at start. Myers’ staging tolerates this without gouging the eye of the impeller, which keeps axial loads even and protects the seal interface. An abraded eye increases turbulence—your seal’s worst enemy.
Fasteners and Galling
Stainless fasteners with proper anti‑seize torque to spec and unthread cleanly for service. A field serviceable pump you can’t open isn’t serviceable. Myers’ threaded assembly is built for the real world.
Key takeaway: Corrosion doesn’t just make things ugly; it changes seal geometry. Stainless keeps seals honest.
#4. Comparison Deep Dive: Myers Predator Plus vs Goulds and Red Lion on Seals, Materials, and Lifespan
Technical performance: Myers uses a 4" submersible platform with full 300 series stainless steel on wet components, Teflon‑impregnated staging, and Pentek XE high‑thrust motors delivering 80%+ efficiency near BEP. Goulds offers capable hydraulics, but many models still incorporate cast components that can corrode in harsher waters, impacting seal seats and O‑ring interfaces over time. Red Lion’s thermoplastic housings lighten weight but face creep and cracking under frequent pressure cycles and thermal shifts—tolerances around mechanical seals don’t stay true.
Application differences: Myers’ field‑friendly threaded assembly allows on‑site seal and stage service without a full replacement. That’s a game‑changer for rural installs where crane time and second trips kill budgets. Goulds is serviceable, yes, but cast parts in high‑iron or acidic conditions push more frequent swaps of seal‑adjacent components. Red Lion is fine for basic duty cycles; under sand load and frequent starts, the plastic can distort, nudging seals out of spec. Service life? Myers Predator Plus typically runs 8–15 years with proper sizing and a clean installation, extending to 20+ with disciplined maintenance; the others trend shorter under grit and seasonal drawdown.
Value conclusion: If your well water and duty cycle are average to harsh, stainless construction, self‑lubricating stages, and a high‑thrust motor mean fewer seal failures and fewer pulls. Backed by Pentair R&D and PSAM support, Myers is worth every single penny.
#5. Right-Sizing Stops Leaks - Matching HP, GPM Rating, and TDH Using Pump Curves
Seal survival depends on operating at the best efficiency point (BEP). Oversizing horsepower pushes flow too high at startup, spikes thrust loads, and agitates grit. Undersizing forces long, hot run times that bake seals.
Start with TDH (total dynamic head): static water level + drawdown + vertical lift + friction losses + desired pressure converted to feet (psi x 2.31). For the Orellanas: static 85 ft, pumping level ~120 ft under demand, vertical to tank 10 ft, friction ~15 ft, desired 60 psi = 139 ft. TDH ≈ 120 + 10 + 15 + 139 = 284 ft. Their 1 HP, 10 GPM Myers curve puts BEP near that head with a shut‑off head around 380–400 ft—comfortably above TDH, safely below runaway flow.
Use the Pump Curve, Not Guesswork
- Identify BEP band; pick the model that places your operating point within that sweet spot. Target 1–2 GPM per fixture with buffer; most homes do well at 10–12 GPM nominal.
Stages and Pressure
More stages produce higher head at a given GPM. In Myers, a 15‑stage 1 HP will outperform a 10‑stage at depth. Running near BEP keeps seal faces stable and cool.
Electrical Pairing
At 230V single‑phase with a 2‑wire configuration or 3‑wire plus control box, match amperage draw to breaker and wire gauge to limit voltage drop. Low voltage overheats motors, cooking seals.
Key Myers grinder pump specifications takeaway: Size with math. A right‑sized Myers runs cooler, seals last longer, and your electric bill drops.
#6. Installation Controls That Prevent Seal Failures - Check Valves, Torque Arrestors, and Pitless Integrity
A perfect pump can be undone by sloppy control of flow and motion.
Install a primary check valve integral to the pump, and a secondary every 100 feet of lift on deep sets. A leaky or absent check hammers the seal faces on every stop, reversing flow and inviting grit into the seal cavity. Use stainless or brass with full‑port design. Add a torque arrestor to prevent the motor’s start torque from slapping the column against casing, which can nick wiring and transmit vibration to the seal stack.
At the Orellanas’, we replaced a sticky brass check with a stainless full‑port and added a torque arrestor at 10 feet above the pump. Their old installation had no arrestor—start surges were transmitting into the column, accelerating wear.
Pitless Adapter and O‑Ring Seal
A weeping pitless adapter leaks into the annulus and can mask as a pump leak. Clean, grease, and seat the O‑rings. Verify no bypass during a static pressure test.
Drop Pipe Alignment
Crooked pipe causes side‑loading on the pump. Side loads translate into axial wobble at the seal. Plumb your string, use proper well seal or cap, and support with safety rope.
Control Box and Pressure Switch
For 3‑wire well pump setups, a proper control box matched to the motor ensures correct start and run currents. A chattering pressure switch drives micro‑cycles that punish seals. Replace at the first sign of chatter.
Key takeaway: Mechanical controls and alignment myers 1 2 hp well pump are your seal’s bodyguards. Set them up right once—then forget them for years.
#7. Electrical Health = Seal Health - Voltage Drop, Lightning Protection, and Thermal Safeguards
Electrical abuse shows up in the seal stack as heat and vibration.
The Pentek XE motor brings thermal overload protection and lightning protection that reduce catastrophic failures. But you must deliver clean power. Keep voltage drop under 5% end‑to‑end: for a 1 HP at 230V over 300 feet round trip, that often means stepping up to 10 AWG copper. Undersized wire causes low voltage at the motor, higher current, and heat that transmits to the seal cavity.
Priya mentioned a summer lightning storm that tripped their panel twice. The old motor had no surge headroom. With the Myers motor and whole‑home surge protection, we’ve eliminated nuisance trips and the heat spikes that cooked the previous seals.
Breaker and Wire Sizing
Follow nameplate amperage draw and NEC tables. Oversized breaker with undersized wire is a recipe for insulation creep and motor heat—bad for seals.
Start/Run Capacitors (3-Wire)
Capacitor problems cause hard starts and motor chatter. Replace control box components proactively at 7–10 years.
Grounding and Splices
Solid grounding reduces lightning path through the motor. Use proper, adhesive‑lined wire splice kit components and keep splices above static water level whenever possible.
Key takeaway: Clean power equals cool seals. Pair Myers’ protected motor with correct wiring, and leaks remain a non‑issue.
#8. Comparison Deep Dive: Myers vs Franklin Electric on Field Serviceability, 2-Wire Simplicity, and Ownership Costs
Technical performance: Both are respected names. Franklin Electric offers strong motors and broad availability, but many packages lean on proprietary control boxes and dealer networks. Myers’ Predator Plus pairs Pentair‑engineered hydraulics with Pentek XE motors, hitting 80%+ hydraulic efficiency at BEP. The differentiator for leak and seal upkeep is the field serviceable threaded assembly—contractors can disassemble pump ends on site to inspect seals, stages, and wear rings without committing to full replacement.
Application differences: In rural service areas, downtime kills. Franklin’s proprietary components can extend lead times and often require specific dealer parts. Myers allows qualified contractors to open the pump end, replace a seal, swap stages, and reseal the unit quickly—keeping a family in water the same day. The availability of 2‑wire configuration models also simplifies retrofits, trimming $200–$400 on control box costs and reducing failure points—fewer external components, fewer ways to over‑start and over‑heat seals.
Value conclusion: When you factor in fewer trips, easier on‑site service, and a 3‑year warranty backed by PSAM stock and support, Myers minimizes lifetime ownership cost. For many homeowners and contractors, that’s worth every single penny.
#9. Seal-Friendly Operation - Pressure Tank Sizing, Cycle Stopping, and BEP Run Time
Once installed, operating behavior determines whether seals last a decade or die in three years.
Size the pressure tank so your pump runs for at least one minute per cycle at normal draw. As a quick rule, storage capacity (usable gallons between cut‑in and cut‑out) should be at least one gallon per GPM of pump capacity. A 10 GPM pump needs roughly 10 gallons of drawdown; a common 44‑gallon tank provides about that at 40/60. Short cycling overheats seal faces, starves lubrication films, and invites leaks.
We upgraded the Orellanas to a 44‑gallon tank, tuned pre‑charge to 38 psi, and their cycle time went from 18 seconds to 70 seconds on a single fixture—perfect for seal life.
Cycle Stop Valves and Constant Pressure
A properly set booster or cycle stop valve can keep the pump running near BEP at partial demand, eliminating rapid on/off behavior. Less thermal shock equals happier seals.
Pressure Switch Settings
Don’t set 50/70 unless your pump can comfortably hit 70 psi at your TDH. Running at the ragged edge drives heat and vibration. Most homes do beautifully at 40/60.
Leak Check Schedule
- Quarterly: static pressure hold test with all valves closed. Annually: amp draw and voltage check, tank pre‑charge verification, switch point calibration.
Key takeaway: Give your pump long, steady runs in the BEP band. Your seals will thank you with years of quiet service.
#10. Service Playbook - Pulling, Inspecting, Resealing, and Stocking the Right Myers Parts
When a leak is suspected or you’re doing preventive maintenance, work a consistent checklist.
Before pulling, log pressure behavior, amp draw, and recovery rate. Once topside, inspect for milky oil (water intrusion), rust stripes (discharge seep), and stage erosion (grit scoring). Myers’ field serviceable design means you can replace nitrile rubber bearings, seal assemblies, and worn stages without replacing the entire pump. Keep a seal kit, O‑rings, stainless fasteners, and a spare internal check valve in your truck. Use proper torque, antiseize on stainless threads, and align couplings to preserve shaft and seal life.
For the Orellanas, we stocked a Predator Plus 1 HP 10 GPM pump end, a Pentek XE motor, O‑ring kit, and a stainless check. Total downtime: under a day. Water back on before evening chores.
Accessory Must-Haves from Rick’s Picks
- Pitless adapter O‑rings and food‑grade silicone grease. Torque arrestor and safety rope. Heat‑shrink wire splice kit and cable guard. Extra pressure switch and gauge.
Documentation and Curve Sheet
Leave the pump curve and install sheet at the tank. Note depth set, check locations, tank size, and switch settings. That record saves hours later.
Key takeaway: With Myers and PSAM stocking, service is straightforward and fast. Keep the right parts, follow the checklist, and leaks won’t take your system down.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with the math. Calculate TDH (total dynamic head): pumping level plus vertical lift plus friction losses plus desired pressure (psi x 2.31). Then pick a submersible well pump whose curve places your operating point near its BEP. For a typical 3‑bath home needing 8–12 GPM and a TDH of ~250–300 feet, a 1 HP Myers Predator Plus at 230V often fits. Very deep wells (350–450 feet TDH) may require 1.5 HP or more with additional stages. If you irrigate or fill livestock tanks, bump the GPM rating and ensure the pump’s shut‑off head exceeds TDH by at least 15–20%. My field rule: size for steady, one‑minute minimum run times and BEP operation; seals run cooler and last longer. If unsure, call PSAM with your depth, static, drawdown, and pipe size—we’ll run the numbers.
What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most homes live comfortably at 8–12 GPM. Multi‑fixture or irrigation demand can push that to 15–20 GPM. A multi-stage pump stacks stages to build pressure (head) while controlling flow. Each stage adds head; together they hit your pressure requirements at depth. The Myers Predator Plus 10 GPM models have staging options to match TDH precisely, letting you meet 40/60 psi settings without over‑speeding. Running near the pump’s BEP reduces vibration and heat at the seal faces. Too few stages and you’ll run hot, long cycles; too many and you risk excessive shut‑off head with pressure spikes. Use the curve, not guesses.
How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency comes from the marriage of hydraulics and motor. The Predator Plus uses precision‑molded engineered composite impellers with Teflon‑impregnated staging, minimizing internal leakage and turbulence. Pair that with a Pentek XE motor designed for high thrust with low electrical losses, and you routinely see 80%+ near BEP. Fewer watts per gallon pumped equals less heat in the motor can and around the mechanical seal. In my field installs, that translates to cooler operation, stable pressure, and longer seal life—plus 10–20% lower energy costs annually compared to generic submersibles.
Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Submerged components face chloride attack, iron fouling, and pH swings. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting and crevice corrosion that distort seal lands and O‑ring seats. Cast iron can corrode, undermining flatness where seals must remain true, leading to seepage. Stainless also keeps fasteners and threaded assembly serviceable years later. In wells with high mineral content or mild acidity, stainless is an insurance policy for seals and pressure integrity. That’s why the Myers Predator Plus uses stainless for shell, discharge, shaft, coupling, and suction screen—corrosion resistance that protects the seals’ geometry for the long haul.
How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
At startup, water film is thin and grit is most disruptive. Teflon‑impregnated staging and self‑lubricating impellers create a low‑friction interface that resists micro‑gouging when small particles pass through. Reduced friction equals lower heat and steadier axial loads on the shaft, which keeps the mechanical seal faces aligned. In the field, I see less scoring at the impeller eye and fewer seal leaks after seasonal drawdowns kick up sediment. Pair this with a good intake screen and avoid setting the pump too close to the well bottom; you’ll dramatically reduce abrasion.
What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
The Pentek XE motor is built for high axial thrust with lower electrical losses. Efficient windings, tight rotor balance, and thermal overload protection keep temperatures down under high head. With proper voltage and single‑phase power at 230V, you’ll see clean starts and steady RPM without hunting. Efficient motors run cooler—cool motors keep seals cool. The XE also includes lightning protection, reducing spiking events that can bake the seal cavity. In practice, that means fewer nuisance trips, stable pressure, and a longer mechanical seal life.
Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
A capable DIYer can install a Myers submersible well pump if comfortable with electrical and plumbing codes, proper wire splice kit technique, and lifting safety. You’ll need to size wire correctly for voltage drop, set check valves, align the pitless adapter, and calibrate the pressure switch and pressure tank. Many homeowners hire a contractor for the pull and set while handling tank and switch work themselves. If your well is deep or confined, or if you’re switching from a 3‑wire to 2‑wire configuration, I recommend a licensed pro. PSAM can supply the full kit—pump, drop pipe, torque arrestor, safety rope, fittings—and talk you through the curve and wiring.
What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2‑wire well pump has the start components built into the motor; fewer external parts, simpler wiring, and usually lower upfront cost. A 3‑wire well pump uses an external control box with start capacitor and relay topside, making those components easy to replace later. Myers offers both. For many residential installs, 2‑wire simplifies setup and reduces failure points, helping seals by preventing hard‑start chatter. For deep wells or service areas where swapping a control box saves a pull, 3‑wire is a smart choice. I choose based on depth, access, and customer preference; both are PSAM‑stocked.
How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
Installed and sized correctly, you should see 8–15 years. I’ve serviced Myers units that reached 20–30 years with disciplined care: proper tank sizing, annual pre‑charge checks, voltage verification, and occasional recovery testing to avoid setting the pump near the bottom as sediment shifts. The 3‑year warranty covers early manufacturing issues; beyond that, your operation near BEP and clean power from a correctly sized circuit carry the baton. When seals are protected from heat and grit, lifespan stretches.
What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
Quarterly: observe pressure behavior; look for bleed‑down. Check the gauge and listen for rapid cycling. Annually: verify tank pre‑charge (2 psi below cut‑in), clean contacts or replace the pressure switch, check breaker and amperage draw, inspect grounding, and confirm no leaks at the tank tee. Every 3–5 years: perform a recovery test to ensure the pump isn’t set into new sediment; adjust set depth if needed. After lightning storms: inspect surge devices and verify motor ohms if you note odd cycling. Pro tip: keep a log at the tank. Small changes warn you before seals suffer.
How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ 3‑year warranty beats the typical 12–18 month market coverage. It addresses manufacturing defects and performance issues. With PSAM as your supplier, you get straightforward claim support and fast part replacement. Compare that to budget brands with one‑year terms and limited parts availability—downtime multiplies. Couple the warranty with UL listed and CSA certified components, and you’ve got a safety and performance net that makes ownership simpler and cheaper. In practice, I see fewer early failures on Predator Plus units, and when issues arise, turnaround is fast.
What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Let’s run a scenario. A budget submersible at $450, average 4‑5 year life, two replacements in 10 years, two pulls at $400 each: $1,700–$1,900 plus 10–15% higher energy use. A Myers Predator Plus at $900–$1,200 with a single install, 8–15 year life, and 10–20% lower energy costs saves $200–$350 in electricity, avoids a second pull, and includes a 3‑year warranty. Add fewer seal‑related failures and less downtime. Net: Myers typically saves $600–$1,200 over a decade while delivering consistent pressure. When your household depends on the well for everything, reliable water is worth more than the parts list.
Conclusion: Seal the System, Not Your Fate
Leaks don’t start at the kitchen sink; they start at the seal faces, discharge O‑rings, cable entries, and in the choices made during sizing and installation. Myers’ Predator Plus Series brings the right metals, the right motor, and a field serviceable design together: 300 series stainless steel, Teflon‑impregnated staging, self‑lubricating impellers, and a Pentek XE high‑thrust motor with built‑in protection. That’s why I put the Orellanas into a Myers 1 HP 10 GPM at 230V with a properly sized pressure tank, new stainless check valve, torque arrestor, and calibrated pressure switch. Their system now cycles slow, runs cool, and delivers clean water without drama.
For homeowners, contractors, and emergency buyers, PSAM has Myers pumps and all the accessories ready to ship same day. Need help with curves, TDH math, or 2‑wire vs 3‑wire? Call in, ask for Rick’s Picks, and we’ll get you squared away. When seals are protected and leaks are prevented by design, your family simply has water—every morning, every meal, every load of laundry. That’s reliability worth every single penny.