The shower went cold, the pressure sagged, then silence. No hum from the basement, no water at the sink, just panic. When a well pump dies, a household goes from normal to survival mode in minutes. Coffee, laundry, livestock, showers, firefighting reserve—everything relies on that pump coming back fast and staying reliable.
Outside Walla Walla, Washington, the Orellana family lived this last month. Rafael Orellana (41), a vineyard field manager, and his spouse, Lila (38), a school nurse, were preparing for a birthday party for their kids—Mateo (10) and Sofia (7)—when their 9-year-old 3/4 HP submersible coughed its last. Their 240-foot basalt well, cased to 80 feet with an unlined bore below, had always been sandy in late summer. Their previous Goulds unit lost pressure over weeks, then seized as the bearings scraped down. The property’s 8-10 GPM demand strained their undersized pump and small 20-gallon pressure tank.
That call landed on my desk at Plumbing Supply And More (PSAM). I’ve spent decades fixing exactly this: older wells, tired housings, mismatched tanks, control boxes that have baked for years. Myers Pumps—especially the Predator Plus Series—make retrofits clean, reliable, and future-proof. This list is the sequence I use in the field to retrofit older systems right the first time.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
- Stainless steel that survives bad water. The right motor torque for old drop pipe and long heads. Staging and flow matching with true pump curve analysis. 2-wire vs 3-wire sanity for retrofit simplicity. Pressure/volume balance—tanks, switches, and cycling. Sand management—why Teflon-impregnated staging matters. Field-serviceable assemblies when you can’t afford downtime. Real head calculations: TDH, friction loss, and reality checks. Electrical retrofits: voltage, amperage, wire gauge, surge protection. Startup, warranty, and ongoing maintenance that extends life beyond a decade.
The Orellanas wanted one outcome: water back on, no games. If you’re a rural homeowner, a contractor on the clock, or an emergency buyer, this checklist walks you from panic to predictable water—using a PSAM Myers pump setup I trust with my name.
#1. Myers Predator Plus Stainless Steel Construction — 300 Series Lead-Free Components that Survive Old, Harsh Wells
Older wells often bring sand, iron, and unpredictable pH that chew through soft materials. A retrofit worth doing demands materials that won’t pit, corrode, or warp in five summers.
Myers’ Predator Plus uses a full suite of 300 series stainless steel—shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen. That stainless resists chlorides and acidic conditions far better than cast iron. Pair that with engineered Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers that glide over grit rather than grind themselves down, and you have a pump that actually likes old wells.
The motor side matters too. The Predator Plus leverages the Pentek XE motor—a high-thrust design that handles axial load from multi-stage stacks without cooking bearings. You also get thermal overload protection and integral lightning protection. On older systems with questionable surge protection and splices that have seen better days, that’s cheap insurance baked in.
For the Orellanas, those 240 feet plus late-summer sand were destroying conventional impellers. Going stainless and self-lubricating on staging gave them durability where their old cast iron/standard-poly blend wore smooth in two seasons.
Old-Well Water Chemistry and Stainless Longevity
Aggressive water (low pH, high CO2) and high iron will etch cast iron. In submersible conditions, the cost of pulling a pump dwarfs the small premium for stainless. With corrosion resistant metallurgy across wetted parts, Predator Plus keeps tolerances tight and performance consistent. Loss of efficiency often starts at eroded wear rings—stainless resists that.
Staging Built for Abrasion
Engineered composite impellers with Teflon impregnation create a self-lubricating film under load. That micro-layer reduces rubbing heat and keeps sand from embedding. In retrofits with known grit, this staging prevents the death spiral: sand → friction → heat → seized bearings.
PSAM Stock and Support
We keep Predator Plus in key horsepower and flow stages ready to ship. When you call PSAM, we’ll match head, GPM, and voltage same-day and ship so you’re not hauling water for a week.
Bottom line: Start with the right metal and staging, and everything downstream lasts longer. Stainless here is an investment—not an option.
#2. Pentek XE High-Thrust Motor Technology — Real Torque at Depth and 80%+ Hydraulic Efficiency at the BEP
Older wells rarely deliver smooth operating conditions. Long drops, older drop pipe, choked screen sections—motors work harder to keep flow on curve. This is where the Pentek XE motor shines.
High-thrust motors are built for the axial load created by multi-stage stacks. As stages build head, thrust pushes down into the thrust bearing. The XE design distributes that load and runs cooler under continuous duty. Myers marries that to efficient hydraulics, delivering 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near the best efficiency point (BEP). Translation: the same gallons with less amperage draw and lower heat.
At 240 feet with a house and a small pasture hydrant, the Orellanas needed a reliable 10 GPM profile. A 1 HP, 230V, single-phase Predator Plus hit their TDH target with room to spare and 20% lower energy costs compared to their previous motor.
Why Efficiency at BEP Matters
Any pump can “hit the number” on paper. The question is: where on the curve? Run too far left (too much head) and heat soars. Too far right (too much flow) and pressure stalls and motors overspeed. The Predator Plus curve is wide and forgiving—ideal for retrofits where static levels swing.
Thermal and Lightning Protection Built-In
Rural lines spike. Wellheads get static and nearby strikes. Thermal protected and lightning protected XE motors buy time when conditions get rough. Pair with a surge protector at the panel for a belt-and-suspenders approach.
Rick’s Pro Tip
Check locked rotor amps (LRA) against your breaker and wire gauge before you pull the old pump. If you’re upsizing HP, confirm your conductors meet ampacity at your run length. We can run the math with you in 5 minutes.
Choose motors that don’t complain when conditions change. That’s the XE advantage.
#3. Match TDH and GPM to Reality — Pump Curve Sizing That Fits Old Wells, Not Marketing Brochures
What kills most retrofits? Guessing. Every old well demands a true TDH (total dynamic head) calculation and a realistic GPM rating target. I size pumps off data—not hope.
TDH equals static water level change plus drawdown plus friction losses through drop pipe, fittings, and 1-1/4" NPT discharge, plus elevation to the highest fixture, plus desired pressure at the house. For the Orellanas: 240-foot depth, 50-foot static, 140-foot dynamic, plus 30-35 psi at the tank, plus friction in 200 feet of 1” poly. The result put their BEP right on a 10 GPM, 1 HP Predator Plus stage stack.
Bigger Isn’t Better
Oversized pumps short-cycle pressure tanks and destroy motors. Undersized pumps sit on the left side of the curve and overheat. A multi-stage pump with the right number of stages keeps your operating point centered, pressure steady, and energy bills in check.
Friction Loss Sneaks Up
Each elbow, tee, and check valve adds head. Old systems often have multiple unions and questionable barb fittings that add roughness. We count them.
Rick’s Curve Process
- Confirm static and dynamic water levels. Measure or estimate pipe length and size. Add elevation and pressure requirements (PSI x 2.31 = feet of head). Plot operating point; move up one model if seasonal drawdown is severe.
Get the curve right and you avoid callbacks, burnt motors, and angry mornings without water.
#4. 2-Wire vs 3-Wire: Retrofit Simplicity and Control Box Choices that Save $200-400
When retrofitting older systems, wiring dictates cost and downtime. Myers offers both 2-wire configuration and 3-wire configuration options. In older homes without a good spot for a new control box, a 2-wire submersible (internal start components) reduces parts count and speeds installs.
For the Orellanas, the basement wall had little real estate and the old control box buzzed like a hornet. We went 2-wire at 230V—clean, simple, reliable. Startup torque is handled internally; the drop-in was faster and neater.
When 3-Wire Still Wins
Long wire runs with voltage drop issues sometimes benefit from external start components. Diagnostics can be easier with a 3-wire box. In very deep wells, some techs prefer the serviceability of external capacitors.
Voltage and Wire Gauge
Existing wire must match amp draw. For 1 HP at 230V, long runs may require 10 AWG to minimize drop. We calculate voltage drop at full load and select accordingly. PSAM stocks wire splice kits and torque-rated pitless adapters for safe pulls.
Rick’s Recommendation
If your existing control box is failing or space is tight, go 2-wire. If you want maximum in-field diagnostics for very deep wells, go 3-wire. Either way, Myers has both—no forced complexity.
Choose what fits the house you’re retrofitting—not what a proprietary system demands.
#5. Predator Plus vs Budget Thermoplastic and Cast Iron: Why Materials and Staging Decide 10-Year Outcomes
Comparing retrofit results across brands isn’t a spec sheet game—it’s about what happens after five summers. Myers’ full 300 series stainless steel wetted parts and Teflon-impregnated staging fight corrosion and abrasion. Budget brands often substitute thermoplastic housings or cast iron components that degrade under acidic water and cycling pressure. The Pentek XE motor runs cooler, with high-thrust bearings designed for multi-stage loads. Hydraulic design targets 80%+ efficiency at BEP, whereas budget curves peak narrow and drop quickly.
In real homes, this means fewer pulls, fewer bearing failures, and consistent pressure years down the road. Maintenance is realistic: periodic tank checks, switch calibration, and yearly electrical inspection. The pump keeps doing its job without surprises.
Contractors see it in the numbers. Service intervals stretch. Warranty calls drop. Homeowners stop budgeting for pulls every three to five years. When retrofitting older systems—where variables are stacked against you—Myers’ materials, motor, and staging change the math. Backed by PSAM stocking and support, it’s a system-level win. For long-term reliability with corrosive or sandy water, Myers is worth every single penny.
#6. Pressure Tank and Switch Strategy — Stop Short-Cycling and Save Your Motor
Older systems fail not because of the pump—but because the controls force it to work badly. A tiny pressure tank on a family home? That’s a short-cycle machine. Every on/off cycle is a punch to your motor’s lifespan.
I match tank size to drawdown at your pressure switch settings. A 40/60 PSI switch with a 10 GPM pump should have enough drawdown to run for at least 1 minute per cycle. Often that means upgrading to a 44-gallon or 62-gallon tank on a 10 GPM system.
Switch Settings and Pre-Charge
Set pressure switch thoughtfully (e.g., 40/60). Pre-charge the tank to 2 PSI below cut-in (38 PSI for 40/60). Check it annually. A poorly set pre-charge makes your pump slam on and off.
Check Valve Strategy
Use a single check valve at the pump discharge. Additional checks up the line can mask leaks and create water hammer. Old systems often have two or three—remove extras during retrofit.
Rick’s Tank Rule
If your pump cycles more than once per 30 seconds when a single faucet is open, your tank is undersized or failing. Fix it now; your motor will thank you.
Stabilize pressure, stretch cycles, extend pump life. It’s the cheapest longevity trick in the book.
#7. Sand and Grit Defense — Teflon-Impregnated Staging and Intake Screen Placement that Actually Work
Retrofits in sandy wells need pumps designed for abrasion. Myers’ self-lubricating impellers and Teflon-impregnated staging keep grit from gouging stages and diffusers. The intake screen and wear ring design maintain efficiency by preventing excessive recirculation from eroded gaps.
Placement matters. I set the pump 10-20 feet above the known static water level’s seasonal low and a safe distance above bottom. On older wells without a sump, the last 5-10 feet often hold silt—don’t set the intake down there.
Cable Guard and Torque Control
Add a cable guard to keep conductors from rubbing the casing. Use a torque arrestor only if needed—over-tightening can choke flow in narrow casings. Most Predator Plus installs run clean with proper centering.
Drop Pipe Choices
Schedule 120 PVC or high-pressure rated poly paired with stainless barbs and double clamps avoids internal roughness that amplifies friction. Smooth paths keep sand from lodging and grinding.
Orellana Example
Their late-summer sand load dropped after we raised set depth by 15 feet and upgraded drop pipe. Combined with the Predator Plus staging, wear dropped dramatically.
You can’t eliminate sand, but you can make it harmless.
#8. Field-Serviceable Threaded Assembly — Repairs Without Full Pulls Save Days and Dollars
When you retrofit into older infrastructure, serviceability becomes your safety net. Myers builds the Predator Plus with a threaded assembly that is genuinely field serviceable. Simple, proven fasteners and accessible components let qualified techs replace stages, seals, or bearings without sending the unit to a proprietary shop.
On retrofits where myers deep well pump the well cap is stubborn, or the pitless is 30 years old, every avoided full pull is a win. Add PSAM’s ready parts inventory and you’re reducing downtime from days to hours.
Contractor Reality
Emergency calls happen on Friday afternoons. Field-serviceable design gives you options: swap a seal kit, replace a top end, or re-stage for changing head needs without waiting on a dealer network.
Orellana Insurance
Rafael wanted plan B. Knowing the pump could be serviced and PSAM stocked parts calmed the nerves—and got us the green light faster than any sales pitch.
Service-friendly pumps turn emergencies into scheduled maintenance. That’s how you keep water on.
#9. Electrical Retrofits — 230V, Wire Gauge, Surge Protection, and Control Boxes that Don’t Fight Your Pump
A well pump only performs as well as the power feeding it. Older systems often hide corroded splices and undersized wire that strangles a new pump from day one.
For a 1 HP submersible at 230V, confirm breaker sizing, conductor length, and amperage draw at full load. Use proper heat-shrink wire splice kits below the well cap. At the panel, add a surge protector. In lightning-prone regions, supplement with a Type 2 SPD at the subpanel.
Control Box or No Box?
As covered earlier, 2-wire eliminates an external control box, simplifying retrofits. If you keep a control box (3-wire), mount it on a vibration-free backer and confirm all capacitor ratings match the new motor.
Grounding and Well Caps
A proper bond at the well casing and a sealed well cap keeps both electricity and critters where they belong. I replace cracked caps on sight.
Rick’s Checklist
- Verify voltage under load. Confirm wire gauge for run length. Replace sketchy splices. Add surge protection. Document LRA and FLA after startup.
Electrically sound retrofits protect your investment—and your warranty.
#10. Warranty, Certifications, and PSAM Support — Why Myers’ 3-Year Coverage and Pentair Backing Matter in Old Systems
Older wells throw curveballs. That’s where a strong warranty and manufacturer support keep projects calm. Myers stands behind Predator Plus with an industry-leading 3-year warranty—far longer than the 12-18 months many brands offer. Pumps are Made in USA, UL listed, CSA certified, often NSF certified, and factory tested.
Backed by Pentair R&D, you get clear pump curves, motor specs, and replacement parts data. At PSAM, we add same-day shipping on in-stock units and practical install guidance from someone who’s pulled more than a few hundred pumps.
Documentation Protects You
Keep install notes: set depth, static/dynamic levels, switch settings, amperage draw, https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/solids-handling-sewage-pump-3-phase-2-hp-460v-908001.html and tank pre-charge. It streamlines future service and backs warranty claims.
Orellana Outcome
Their Myers Predator Plus 1 HP 10 GPM runs cool, cycles correctly with a right-sized tank, and has protections in place. They’ve regained showers, irrigation, and peace.
A quality pump plus real support isn’t a luxury—it’s how you stop living in fear of your water.
Detailed Competitor Comparisons (Contextual to Retrofits)
When you’re retrofitting older systems, brand differences show up in service calls and energy bills—not just in brochures. I’ll keep this focused on three names I encounter most often: Goulds, Grundfos, and Franklin Electric.
Myers vs Goulds in Corrosive or Sandy Wells
Goulds has a loyal following, but many of their models use cast iron components in the hydraulic stack. In older wells with low pH or high iron, cast iron pits and sheds efficiency. Myers’ full 300 series stainless steel wetted parts resist pitting, and the Teflon-impregnated staging tolerates grit without chewing itself up. On motor efficiency, Myers’ Pentek XE delivers high-thrust bearings built for multi-stage loads and a broad efficiency plateau near BEP. Over a 10-year window, Myers typically avoids the mid-life pull caused by impeller and wear ring erosion we see on cast iron stacks. For the Orellanas’ 240-foot basalt well with seasonal sand, stainless and self-lubricating staging weren’t nice-to-haves; they were the difference between steady water and unreliable weekends. For corrosive, sandy retrofits, Myers is worth every single penny.
Myers vs Grundfos on Retrofit Simplicity and Wire Configurations
Grundfos makes solid equipment, but retrofitting older homes often hits a wall with their control logic and preferred 3-wire systems or proprietary electronics. That can mean extra control boxes, rewiring, and added space requirements in tight basements. Myers offers true flexibility: 2-wire configuration for clean, quick installs where you don’t want to mount another box, and 3-wire for techs who prefer external start components on very deep sets. Hydraulic efficiency is competitive; maintenance access and parts availability through PSAM are straightforward. When you’re trying to restore water the same day without rebuilding the mechanical room, Myers’ drop-in simplicity and field-friendly service approach save time, reduce callbacks, and control costs. For retrofit speed and fewer parts in the chain, Myers is worth every single penny.
Myers vs Franklin Electric on Field Serviceability and Dealer Dependencies
Franklin Electric motors are widely used, but many Franklin submersible packages lean on proprietary control components and dealer-centric service paths. In retrofit scenarios—older pitless adapters, limited crane access, one shot at a clean pull—you want gear that’s serviceable in the field with common tools. Myers’ field serviceable and threaded assembly design lets qualified contractors replace wear components without a full bench tear-down or dealer gatekeeping. With Pentek XE motors providing high thrust and integrated protections, and PSAM stocking parts, you’re not waiting on a regional network to say go. The fewer dependencies, the faster you get water back on and keep it there. For independent contractors and homeowners prioritizing uptime, Myers is worth every single penny.
FAQ — Retrofitting Older Systems with PSAM Myers Pumps
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with TDH and GPM. TDH includes static water level, drawdown to dynamic level, elevation to highest fixture, desired pressure (PSI x 2.31), plus friction loss in drop pipe and fittings. Match this against the pump curve at your target flow. Typical homes run 8–12 GPM; irrigation or livestock can push 15–20 GPM. For example, a 200-foot dynamic level plus 50 feet of elevation and 60 PSI at the tank (about 138 feet of head) yields roughly 388 feet of head before friction—often a 1 HP or 1.5 HP choice depending on pipe and fittings. Myers Predator Plus offers multiple stage options so we can center your operating point near BEP. Call PSAM—give us depth, pipe size/length, and desired pressure—we’ll size it in five minutes. My recommendation: target steady 1–2 minute run times per cycle and spare horsepower only if seasonal drawdown is significant.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most single-family homes are well served at 8–12 GPM. Add irrigation zones or livestock, and you might require 15–20 GPM. Multi-stage impellers add head in series—each stage contributes pressure. That’s how a compact submersible well pump produces 40–70 PSI at the surface. The trick is placing your operating point on the pump curve where efficiency is highest. Too few stages and you won’t hit pressure; too many and you’ll burn energy to throttle flow. Myers Predator Plus has staged variants in 7–20+ stacks, so we tailor head to your TDH while keeping the motor cool and efficient. For a 240-foot dynamic setup at 10 GPM, a 1 HP 10 GPM Myers typically delivers crisp 50–60 PSI with headroom for seasonal drawdown.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Two factors: hydraulic design and materials. The Predator Plus uses smooth-path diffuser geometry and tight clearances maintained by 300 series stainless steel wear surfaces. Less slop equals less recirculation. The Teflon-impregnated staging reduces internal friction under load, so more motor power converts into usable pressure rather than heat. Combine that with the Pentek XE high-thrust motor’s efficient windings and bearing design, and you get a system that holds 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP. That translates to up to 20% lower operating cost annually versus lower-efficiency stacks. Over 8–15 years, those savings offset upgrade costs—especially if you’re replacing a tired, oversized unit.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Submersible pumps live in an oxygen-poor, mineral-rich environment. Cast iron will pit and corrode faster under low pH and high iron. As surfaces erode, clearances open and efficiency drops; eventually wear rings distort, and impellers wobble. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting and maintains dimensional stability for years, preserving hydraulic performance. That’s critical in older wells where water chemistry changes seasonally. Stainless also tolerates sanitation treatments better. Myers Predator Plus uses stainless for the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen. This design keeps pump curves honest long-term and reduces mid-life pulls caused by corroded housings.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
In gritty wells, standard polymer impellers act like sandpaper victims—abrasion roughens surfaces, increasing drag and heat. Myers’ self-lubricating impellers use Teflon-impregnated staging to create a slick film as stages load. Sand particles are more likely to pass through without embedding, reducing gouging. The result: lower amp draw, less heat, and steady output over time. Pair this with proper set depth (avoid bottom silt) and a good intake screen, and you tame abrasion. For the Orellanas’ basalt well with late-summer sand, this feature alone will likely extend pump life by years versus conventional staging.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
High thrust bearings handle axial loads from multi-stage stacks without excessive heat. The Pentek XE motor uses robust bearing surfaces, optimized windings, and balanced rotor design to deliver torque efficiently. Built-in thermal overload protection and lightning protection help the motor survive real-world abuse—brownouts, spikes, and rapid demand cycles. In field terms, the motor runs cooler at the same head/flow output, which slows insulation aging and extends service life. When retrofitting, that margin of safety matters—older wiring and variable voltage are common, and XE tolerates them better than many off-brand motors.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
A capable DIYer with the right tools can install a Myers submersible well pump, but be candid about the risks. You’ll need a hoist or tripod for safe pulls, proper wire splice kits, a torque wrench for pitless adapter fittings, and accurate electrical testing equipment. Mis-set pressure switches, poor splices, and incorrect pressure tank pre-charge are the most common DIY mistakes I fix. If your well is deep (>200 feet), uses steel drop pipe, or has a questionable pitless, hire a pro. That said, Myers’ clear manuals, field serviceable design, and PSAM support make professional installs fast and DIY installs realistic. When in doubt, call us—ten minutes of planning beats a weekend of headaches.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
In a 2-wire well pump, the start components (start capacitor/relay) are inside the motor. You only run two power conductors plus ground down the well; no external control box. It’s cleaner and often ideal for retrofits. In a 3-wire well pump, start components live in an external control box at the surface, which can simplify diagnostics and allow easy replacement of start parts. Very deep wells sometimes benefit from 3-wire for controlled starts. Myers offers both. For the Orellanas’ limited wall space and the urgency to get water back, a 2-wire, 230V Predator Plus was perfect and saved them the cost and clutter of a new control box.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With correct sizing, clean electrical, proper tank cycling, and a reasonable water chemistry profile, 8–15 years is realistic. I’ve seen 20–30 years when owners protect against short cycling, maintain pre-charge, monitor amperage annually, and avoid setting the intake near bottom silt. Myers’ 3-year warranty covers defects well beyond most brands; stainless steel, self-lubricating impellers, and Pentek XE motors do the rest. If your well is sandy, raise set depth, and consider an oversized tank to reduce starts. The Orellanas should expect a decade-plus with their current setup and maintenance cadence.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
- Check tank pre-charge annually (2 PSI below cut-in). Inspect the pressure switch for pitting or chatter; replace if contacts burn. Test amperage draw at the panel at startup and steady-state; compare to nameplate. Inspect wire connections and surge protection yearly. If water chemistry is harsh, complete periodic sampling and treat if needed. Listen for rapid cycling; if present, evaluate tank diaphragm and switch. These tasks cost little and save pumps. Schedule them every spring and before deep-well irrigation season.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ 3-year warranty outpaces many brands still at 12–18 months. It covers manufacturing defects and performance failures under normal use. Keep your install documentation—depth, pressures, amperage, and wiring details—to streamline any claim. In practice, the combination of Made in USA quality, UL/CSA listings, and Pentair engineering dramatically reduces claims in the first place. For contractors, fewer warranty swaps mean more time building, less time pulling pumps. For homeowners, that third year of coverage turns a retrofit into a long-term fix rather than a stopgap.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Budget pumps can look attractive at checkout but often last 3–5 years, especially with thermoplastic housings and low-grade bearings. Count two to three replacements in a decade plus labor for pulls—suddenly you’ve paid far more. Myers’ upfront cost is offset by 80%+ hydraulic efficiency, fewer cycles due to correct staging, and corrosion-resistant 300 series stainless that preserves performance. Add in the 3-year warranty and PSAM’s same-day parts support, and the math leans hard toward Myers. For the Orellanas, the projected 20% energy savings and avoided mid-life pull alone will cover the price delta in under five years.
Final Take: Retrofits Reward the Right Choices
Old wells aren’t a problem—they’re a reality. The trick is matching reliable hardware to the quirks you already have: depth, chemistry, sand, wiring, and space. Myers’ Predator Plus Series—full stainless, self-lubricating staging, Pentek XE motors, flexible 2-wire or 3-wire options, field-serviceable assemblies, and a true 3-year warranty—checks every box I rely on when I put my name on a retrofit.
For Rafael and Lila Orellana, that meant a 1 HP, 10 GPM Myers submersible well pump set at the right depth, a properly sized pressure tank, clean electrical, and PSAM standing behind the install. Showers are hot again. The hose bib fills troughs without coughing. And next summer’s sand won’t turn into a service call.
If you’re staring at a dry sink or an aging pump, call PSAM. I’ll size your psam myers pump to your real-world TDH, ship it same day if it’s in stock, and walk you through pressure, staging, and wiring so your retrofit isn’t just a replacement—it’s an upgrade that lasts.
Rick’s Picks for a clean retrofit:
- Myers Predator Plus submersible (stainless, correct staging) Properly sized pressure tank and 40/60 switch Heat-shrink splice kit and surge protector Single check valve at the pump, quality pitless adapter Documented set depth and amperage at startup
Do it once. Do it right. With Myers Pumps from PSAM, you get dependable water and fewer surprises—worth every single penny.